Christmas passed
Every year, I swear the same thing – I will make a point of not traveling every week before Christmas in the month of December, so I can get cards into the mail with personal greetings rather than a hurriedly penned signature, so I can ship gifts a week in advance rather than paying dearly for overnight service and anxiously wondering if they will really make it in time. Needless to say, every year the vow is broken and I’m away and working hideous hours up until the moment of 12/21 or 22 when all the shopping must be done by braving the hoards and the shipping can’t be put off a single moment.
Aside from receiving the news on Christmas Eve that both of my grandmothers had experienced major heart surgeries the week prior (they are each in their early 90′s, each live independently still, and each came through their procedures with good prognoses), the season has actually been quiet and mild. And, in a major coup for a peaceful season, we completely avoided entering a single mall, doing our shopping at smaller, out of the way merchants.
Now that my children are definitely grown, the Christmas spirit is somehow easier to enter into, though not until those few days prior to 12/25. Once in it, I don’t fall out as readily; I can maintain a generous nature and equanimity even through the requisite phone call to my mother, which this year didn’t go so badly as in years past. Family members came to our small place for tea this year, and I seriously overbought on the biscuits – we have enough to last RJM and I well into the new year. Principessa C brought warm chocolate chip cookies as well which were quite yummy. The pumpkin pudding was done the day before, even with the last minute realization that the oven door simply could not close with the enormous bain marie I use. Cranking up the heat by 50 degrees and covering the pudding mold with foil and cooking it for a total of 6 hours did the trick though, and it unmolded perfectly. It’s a bit firmer in texture this year, more velvety. I believe this is due to the trick I found in Cook’s Illustrated magazine about drying out the pumpkin first, rather than the change in steaming methods. The chestnuts roasted without major explosions this year too.
We snacked and drank tea and opened presents for a few hours and then headed off to a late lunch at 727 Pine. It’s a lovely, lively, refined space, subtly lit with many mirrors and glass panels, velvet banquettes and simple, straightforward linens and silver. The backlit bar beautifully displayed the various bottles like gems. The waitstaff are all in black, or at least they were for the holiday, and unpretentious, professional, inordinately helpful and unobtrusive, adding greatly to the enjoyment of the meal. We were there for the 5 course prix fixe. My choices: Stilton and pear salad, pear and parsnip soup, mascarpone risotto with truffle, veal chop, gingerbread macaron. Everything was outstanding, a wonderful balance of flavors and larger portions than I expected. The risotto stands out in my memory the following day, with its crown of paperthin white truffle slices and the light lemon tang and perfect bite of the rice. The veal chop was a thick boneless cut, done medium rare and finished with an intense demiglace redolent of shallot. The underlying potatoes were tasty and complemented the silky meat. The chocolate offering for dessert sounded too intensely chocolate for my current tastes – over the past months I’ve come to realize that chocolate has fallen slightly out of my favor and caramel has taken its place. The gingery macaron was both crunchy and chewy, its spiciness tempered by the vanilla ice cream. Bits of pear adorned a ring of sauce about the central disk, and a caramel wafer stood upright in the small scoop. It was all delicious, satisfying, and a lovely holiday meal.
The wine list is extensive, but the steward was exceptionally helpful. We stayed with Australian reds and enjoyed a Clare Valley shiraz/grenache from Lengs and Cooter and a southern Rhone blend from Torbreck.
I would like to express my public thanks to the waitstaff of 727 Pine, who worked on Christmas Day so we could have an enjoyable, restful meal. And next year, I’m not going to travel so much in the month of December…..